Experiences of Racism in Gulu

Most of the racism we’ve experienced here has been really disturbing because it’s been pro-white racism perpetuated by the African people against themselves. Many people talk about how great the US is, and how advanced the Western world is and all that. And I guess the whole thing in Orom, where everyone expected that we would solve all of their problems because we were white, was part of the same phenomenon.

Last night, when my homestay dad was talking about alcohol, was probably the most blatant example. He had made it very clear earlier that alcohol was not permitted in his family, and that he didn’t think any students should be drinking. Plus, I know that alcoholism is a problem here, especially after life in the IDP camps, when people were getting drunk all the time simply because they had nothing else to do, but I was still surprised by what he said. He seemed to equate seeing a person drinking a beer once with an extreme alcohol addiction, and went on a long rant about the troubles of alcohol and immorality etc– all of which were more or less true, if you’re talking about severe addiction. When one of the other people in the program was trying to explain that they thought it was possible to have a drink without becoming an alcoholic, he dismissed this as impossible in Uganda, saying, “Well, maybe that’s possible in America because you have first-class white people there, but not here.” I didn’t really know how to react to this assumption that we were less likely to abuse alcohol because we were better because we were white…

But today we had a lecturer who was so blatantly racist against white people that it was really difficult to take him seriously (ok, so his whole system of religious beliefs and the fact that he was preaching to us also contributed to how ridiculous it was). His basic argument was that Acholi traditional culture and beliefs held all the world’s answers, and the source of conflict in Africa is that people are following other world religions like Christianity, Judaism and Islam instead of sticking to traditional beliefs. He said stuff like, “what is fact is that the Acholi are known for their superior selflessness and honesty” and “Acholi justice cannot compare with any other because it is the pinnacle of divine justice.” The main problem was that a lot of what he was saying would have caused riots if the words “Acholi” or “black” were exchanged for “white.”

I understand that there’s a big difference between a privileged, white person standing up in front of a group of historically disadvantaged black people and proclaiming the superiority of the white race over all others and a historically disadvantaged African standing up in front of a group of privileged white people proclaiming the virtues of his race, but still. Obviously I can’t pretend that the history of colonialism isn’t affecting his opinion, but I don’t really think that racism of any form can be justified. I mean I guess it’s “better” (or at least less awkward) than the weird inferiority complex we’ve been experiencing from everyone else, but why should anti-white racism be considered “another point of view” while any other form causes an uproar (as it should, imho)?

Anyways, I’ve gotten a Katanga (traditional Acholi dress) made! The fabric is so beautiful. All the fabric here is incredible – I want to bring all of it home with me and use it for wall hangings and stuff. The dress is a yellowy-cream color with dark purple curly lines in the background and big blue and green flower things. It’s hard to describe. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize that my homestay family was planning on getting it for me, so they were all upset that I paid for it. But it doesn’t make any sense for them to buy this stuff for me when I know that they need the money – my “sister” still hasn’t been able to go to school because they don’t have the money to pay for her school fees and transportation. Last night she asked me to try to find someone to sponsor all of her education (like, through university) and I didn’t really know what to say… I don’t even know how to find a sponsor for her.

So then today I bumped into her in town when I was on my way to muzungu café to do some work and she dragged me back to the tailor’s to get another dress made, which was not really necessary, that the family could pay for. I couldn’t say no, because it was clearly a matter of pride that they get me this gift. But now I feel so awkward because I still don’t know what kind of gift to give them… I really wish there was some polite way to ask how much is missing from the school fees, so my “sister” could just go to school now (she talks about how much she wants to go to school every day) and write her exams. But I think that even if I gave them this money, I can’t guarantee that it actually goes to her education, and I’m worried that if I ask they’ll tell me they need the full $150, and they’ll expect me to pay it… Blegh. Guess I’ll have to think of something else.

Last night I played soccer with a bunch of the small children living on the compound (I was pretty evenly matched with the 7-year-olds), which was really fun. I’ll probably give them a real soccer ball, though, since they’ve been playing with a ball of cloth scraps.

Next Wednesday we’re heading to Kampala, and then off to Rwanda! As much as I’m enjoying Gulu, I’m excited to move onto the next thing! Plus I think I’ll get to practice my French a lot with the homestay family in Rwanda, which will be great.